So, after 15 hours by plane, 4 by car, I finally made it to my present basis of operation in China. My present condition (a natural symptom of culture shock, I suppose) is of walking around as if under the effect of a slight concussion. Some things, from what I've seen, I like, such as the nitty-gritty atmosphere with food and random stuff all over the place. I'm also developing an addiction to Chinese style aubergines. Yum. The campus where I'm working is pretty, and likely to be prettier when spring starts. Some things less pleasant I was prepared to, such as the less than ideal hygene standards. Something I was mightily unprepared for is the cold.
It's COLD. But it's not that cold outside actually. Rainy perhaps, but ok. It's cold inside. As in, virtually no heating whatsoever. It's been explained to me that it's the norm in southern China and it will get really warm soon (but how soon?). Sitting around a blistering hot apartment seems promising right now. And to think there was a time when I took taking off my coat when going inside for granted. And I discovered the joys of thermal underwear.
To summarize what has happened since I arrived on Friday night I:
- was settled in a hotel, people ordered very copious amounts of food for me, I was told in China you can't share eggs with people because they're a symbol of harmony. Whatever, happy Chinese egg to me (it was also Valentine's day and red lantern day--overtones of Zhang Ymou??)
- met a bunch of old China hands. There seems to be a sort of "Westtown."
- ate instant noodles with chopsticks, while wearing a padded waistcoat-this made me feel very Chinese. I also bought a wok, which I'm not sure how much I'm going to use, since food is plentiful and good outside, but it makes me feel at home and Chinese!
- experienced racial invisibilty. Ok, one kid in the bank came to see me close, otherwise I get the sense of not existing, at times. The experience is very different from being in Japan (ok, each time I bring up Japan, everyone, Chinese or never fails to remind me that it's not the same thing at all. Which I know but--ideograms and chopsticks, anyone?) where the gaijin is viewed with a mixture of sympathy, surprise and pity, since it's not his fault that he's a bit obakasan). It's the kind of thing that makes you realize how white privilege is internalized, in the odd situation where the tables are turned.
- went to an interesting medical check up. You go through various stations, and they check if you're colour-blind or have tb or a bad heart. It wasn't as unpleasant as I had foreseen. At least no one used a glove hook to check if I had trychoma.
- filled my thermos with tea, Chinese style but made very bitter tea. The bitter tea of Dr Francesca X, instead of General Yen (I got to watch that movie. Maybe it's about a guy who put too many leaves in his thermos). I also developed a taste for hot water. Tap water is a no-no otherwise.
So, this is the chronicle of my first few days. Feeling frazzled but interested.
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